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SR20DET Top End Re-Assembly
On 6-24-05, I received my cylinder head, back from having machine work done. I had a port and polish job done and the intake manifold was port matched as well. All of the valve guide seals were replaced (standard SR20DE on the intake side and KA24DE on the exhaust side), the valves were thoroughly cleaned, and a valve grind was performed.
Here is a picture of the cylinder head ready to be installed. The gasket mating surface was cleaned with lacquer thinner.
A pic of the block ready for the head. This gasket mating surface was also cleaned with lacquer thinner.
The threads on the ARP head studs must be lubed with the moly lube that ARP provides as per their instructions. I figured out soon after taking this picture that the studs must be removed first before the head can be installed.
Here is the head installed and torqued. ARP instructs you to use the factory torque sequence but the final torque value must be the ARP provided value. For studs lubed with the ARP moly lube, this value is 70 ft/lbs. For studs lubed with motor oil, it is 85 ft/lbs. I initially torqued all the studs to 23 ft/lbs, followed by 50 ft/lbs. I then completely loosened all the studs and re-torqued to 30 ft/lbs, followed by 50 ft/lbs, and finally torqued them to 70 ft/lbs since I used the ARP moly lube.
After the head was installed, I was able to get started on installing other items. I went ahead and installed the water neck and passenger side motor mount bracket.
I also bled the lifters and installed them along with the shims and rockers.
Equal length manifold installed. The fitment of this manifold (which was made for a RWD DET) is beautiful. For those of you that don't know, the flange on this manifold was cut and re-welded at the proper angle to fit a T25 or T28 in the FWD configuration. The only modification required to the head was cutting one of the mounting brackets for the stock oil catch (which of course has to be removed) short. That cut is pictured in the second picture below and was required in order for runner #4 to clear.
Yet another upgrade opportunity that I seized was that of cams. I purchased a brand new set of JWT S4 cams for this build and those are what I installed next. However, the install took a very long time because of a problem I ran into. Every cam bearing cap bolt hole was filled with a mixture of oil and sand from when the head was sand blasted. I had to very carefully remove every bit of that mess by chasing the threads multiple times with a tap. It was a very tedious and frustrating process, but it had to be done. After the cleaning, the cams were installed and torqued successfully.
Timing verified: Crank pulley on zero degree mark, exhaust cam dowel at 12 o'clock, intake cam at 10 o'clock, and dark chain links lined up with cam gear marks.
The next item on the agenda was the intake manifold. Like I said, the manifold was cleaned thoroughly and port matched.
After the manifold was installed, I installed my fuel system components--which were also upgraded. MSD top feed 50 lb. fuel injectors, JGY Customs top feed fuel rail, Nismo fuel pressure regulator, and Autometer fuel pressure gauge. All threads were sealed with pipe thread sealant. At the same time, I installed the distributor (with new cap and rotor), new OEM plug wires, and new NGK BKR7E spark plugs gapped to .030".
Next in line for install was the turbo. I installed it along with my new stainless braided oil feed line fabricated by Pirtek. I had to install the new water line at a later date. These lines had to be replaced because the manifold moved the turbo from its stock location so the factory hard lines could not be used.
I also mounted the oil catch can. However, because it came empty, I had to make a baffle for it first. The baffle was made out of cut up Pepsi can pieces and air conditioner filter material. I had a friend over working on that.
